Steampunked Out by Witch Works -- Gear up! --

FAQ, Facts, and other info. Here are answers to some of the more "Frequently Asked Questions", products facts, and other important info. (Maybe even a little philosophy.)
What is the difference between plain brown and antiqued brown? Why doesn't the color of my item exactly match what I saw on the web site? Can you make my item white/pink/baby blue (or any other light, pastel color)? Will my (insert gun type here) fit the derringer holster? (Or any other holster size question.) A note about hardware color... A note or 2 about bullets... Why is there a scuff/scratch/imperfection on my item? Can you make items out of vinyl AKA "pleather"? Do you wholesale or drop ship? Why are your prices so expensive/cheap? (The long answer.)
What is the difference between plain brown and antiqued brown? Plain brown is an evenly applied coat of a meduium brown dye. Antiqued brown is the same brown dye with a black fade applied around edges, fold areas, and/or in embossed areas.	Plain Brown	Antiqued Brown
Why doesn't the color of my item exactly match what I saw on the web site? There are 3 main reasons why colors may appear differently in person form the product photos. Firstly, every computer monitor displays color a little bit differently, depending on both model and brand name, and on the uses individual color settings. I try to make sure the color displayed on my monitor is as close a possible to the color of the actual item as seen in natural daylight. Secondly is "light source". Colors will look different to everyone depending on what kind and how bright you light is. Blues, greens and purples usually look much darker under an incandescent light bulb, which produces a yellowish light. I use natural daylight as a baseline for taking photos, because it's pretty much the same for everyone. The third reason has to do with the dyeing process. Every piece is hand dyed, and every piece of leather is a little different. Some pieces accept dye more readily than others, and most leather is a light tan in it's raw state. The closer to white it is, the brighter the color. I try to use whiter pieces for bold colors like red, blue, green, etc. and save the darker pieces for browns and black which is affected less by the starting color. If you have concerns, please contact me BEFORE you order.
Can you make my item white/pink/baby blue (or any other light, pastel color)? Ummm....sort of. Here's the scoop: everything I make is hand dyed. If you've ever looked for white food coloring, or painted with water colors, you see the dilemma. Lighter colors must be achieved by either using less dye or starting with a white background. Since there is a minimum amount of dye that must be applied to get an even and seal able coat, the color depends a lot on the color of the leather I start with....which is NOT white. At best, its a light tan or cream color. White (or other pastel colors) can be achieved with a type of leather paint, but I try to stay away from it if possible. Firstly because it covers up the leather and makes it look "fake" or "plastic like" to me. Secondly, the paint is applied to the top of the leather unlike dye which seeps into the leather. This means it is more likely to show scratches as the item ages. Of course, I'm happy to work with my customers, so if you want white, just contact me directly and we can work it out. :)
Will my (insert gun type here) fit the derringer holster? (Or any other holster size question.) Probably not. I have yet to see a real derringer that is small enough to fit in the derringer holster. The cap guns are toys, and are made to fit kid hands, in addition to being partly plastic and much lighter. The holsters I sell either come with the gun they are intended to fit, or are made to fit a specific type of gun. This includes the western holsters and the NERF Maverick holster. They MIGHT fit something else, MAYBE, but it's best to check before you order. I try to explain what types and sizes of gun each holster fits in the descriptions. That said, I DO make custom holsters. I am happy to work with you to create a custom holster made to fit your gun. For a variation on a stock design, it typically adds $15-$25 to the base price depending on material cost and addition labor. For completely new designs or lot's of fancy tooling, brass, or gadgets, the price goes up. Please contact me for details and I am happy to get you a price quote.
A note about hardware color... Hardware refers specifically to buckles, rings, snaps, or rivets. "Silver" or "brass" refers to the color, not the material these items are made from. These are always metal, NEVER plastic. Usually they are steel, but some parts may be cast aluminum, and are coated with either brass or nickel plating. Solid brass is made (mostly) from copper and tin, both of which are very expensive right now as the demand continues to increase. By using plated hardware, I am able to offer products at a much more affordable rate.
A note or 2 about bullets... Just to reiterate, the different bullets I have available on items are all made from REAL components. They DO NOT have any powder or primers, and are inert/non-firing. Furthermore, they are NOT re loadable. They are solid brass or nickel plated, with lead projectiles seated in them(with the exception of the 12Ga. shotgun shells which are paper hulls with spacers inside). They are only for SHOW, and should not be put in any type of weapon. Because they are inert, it is 100% LEGAL to ship these anywhere in the United States. If you are an overseas customer, IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to check with customs about you local laws BEFORE you attempt to import an item with these bullets on them. Some countries may regulate or ban even ammunition facsimiles. I ship them with (removable) wire inserted into the primer holes to show they are empty, if they are inspected, but that is no guarantee. I have heard of 1 item being siezed in Australia, but several others have gone through fine. If an item is confiscated, most countries have a way to appeal. Be smart and check FIRST please.
Why is there a scuff/scratch/imperfection on my item? Leather comes from cows (duh!) which were at one time alive. Their skin can be scratched or scarred just like ours, and it becomes visible when the hair is removed for tanning. I try to avoid using leather with obvious blemishes, but I may include minor imperfections on occasion under certain conditions. If there are minor marks, I try to keep them on the back or inside of the item. It will not effect the durability, or structural quality. I also try to use blemished leather only on items which are meant to look aged anyway, usually finished in antiqued brown.
Can you make items out of vinyl AKA "pleather"? I'll try to avoid getting on a soapbox here about how pleather is usually made from PVC which off gasses toxic fumes. Not to mention it's plastic and not at all good for the environment; unlike good old organic leather. Oops, guess I did get on that soapbox. There are a few people out there who are genuinely allergic to beef/leather, and are looking for an alternative. Most of my items are hand dyed, and are often embossed with designs. Both of these processes require getting the leather in a raw, unfinished state. Pleather is manufactured with it color and sometimes texture permanently fixed. I would not be able to dye or stamp it in a way that would replicate my leather goods. In addition, it cannot be wet formed or shaped in the same way real leather can be. I'm sorry, but I'm unable to produce goods of of the same quality level from leather substitutes.
Do you wholesale or drop ship? Sorry, I don't drop ship. I might consider drop shipping if you have a physical storefront and stocked a selection of my wares in the shop, but how many people out there have a real brick and mortar steampunk shop? I already have a web site to sell my wears, and drop shipping allows other web sites to compete with me using my own goods, taking no risk and doing little work. I'm not a fan of the "middle man". Wholesale is a different matter. While I do not "keystone" (that's whole selling an item at half of it's retail cost for those of you who didn't know), I can offer a discount for buying multiple items. The discount along with combined shipping should allow you to make a profit selling warehoused items. I'm also happy to work with you to make "plain" versions of some items which you can then use as a base to make your own steampunked out items to sell. I already have a regular customer who buys plain wristbands and flask pouches at a discount and decorates them to resell. Please contact me if your interested in wholesale options and pricing.
Why are your prices so expensive/cheap? Pricing is one of the most difficult things to do as business. You have to balance the costs in materials and labor with what you think people will pay for an item. I have a box full of items I called a "failed prototype" box. They are mostly items that I felt people would not pay the price I would have to charge to cover my labor and materials. How do I figure pricing? Well, here's my formula. I figure out my cost for raw materials like leather, and make it up a little to cover shipping, wastes, and damage/loss. Then I make a prototype and from that, pattern for a product idea. I them make several of the item form the pattern and average the total work time I spent on each one. I charge $30/hour for labor based on this breakdown, and add that to the total material cost. If the final cost is too high and I think people will not pay the retail, I either rework the design to be done faster, or with less material or I toss it in the "failed prototype" box to be possibly reworked later. And I would rather not sell it at all if I can't maintain my standard of quality, so I won't cut corners to save on pricing. Wait, did you say $30/hour?! Yep, but that's not a wage. It pays for rent, electricity, new tools and maintenance, workshop supplies, office supplies, web site hosting, travel expenses, and all the other costs involved in running a business. If there is some left, I get to buy a nice meal out or something on rare occasion. ;) So the real question is "WOW! Why are your prices so cheap!?" and the answer is: Because I do it ALL myself. I research and design it, I manufacture it by hand, I take the photos, I design my own web site and do my own marketing, I package and ship it, and I DON"T have to pay a bunch of middle men. My goal is to make high quality items and sell them at the best price I can, while offering small town, walk-in styled customer service. A huge thank you to all those wonderful customers who are making this possible.

FAQ, Facts, and other info.